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Review by Jeff Gordon, 8th March 2006
At last, a ripper pinot
I don’t know how long I have been looking for a pinot
noir that knocks the socks off and doesn’t cost the
earth, but it’s a long time. Over the years the price
has moved steadily up to about $25, but only a few have
almost got there on both counts.
For consistency and quality Sticks from the Yarra Valley
and de Bortoli’s Windy Peak are always worth buying, but
they’re not really sensational.
However, the newly released Narkoojee ’04 (about $19)
from Gippsland knocked my socks off. Harry Friend is the
original winemaker at Narkoojee and although this is
labelled as a joint project with his son Axel, you can
see Harry’s finesse in the finished product.
This is not going to live in the bottle for ages and
become something people rave about in its old age. But I
have little doubt it will get more rounded and mellow as
some of the fantastic cherry aromas meld with the
flavours that lie below the surface.
This is a bloody ripper of a wine. Whether you want to
drink it with duck or game or soft cheese or if you just
like pinot noir and don’t need eating as an excuse for
it, you should ring Narkoojee now and order as much as
can be afforded. This wine will walk out the door once
word gets around.
The Friends also make three chardonnays that are all
bloody good to say the least. Personally I prefer the
cheaper Trafalgar ’04 to drink now, but the reserve ‘04
will be great drinking with a few more years in the
bottle. I would also highly recommend the 2003 cabernet
but as it’s sold out, wait for the 2004. I’m told it’s
looking even better.
Narkoojee is not always easily found so they offer free
delivery from the cellar door (www.narkoojee.com). Both
winery and web page are worth a visit.
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